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    丽江市:漫话丽江文化
      时间:2010-6-3      来源:发现丽江    编辑:haozhihui【字体: 】【收藏】【关闭

            导读:东巴文化是纳西族自创的一种文化,其核心内容是以纳西东巴象形文字书写的大量东巴经书,以及东巴绘画、东巴舞蹈、东巴音乐、还有就是为东巴专用的各种服饰、器皿、纸、墨等实物,……

    漫话丽江文化

      丽江能同时戴上“国家级历史文化名城”和“世界文化遗产”这两顶耀眼的桂冠,足见其文化底蕴的深厚。要全面准确地认识和了解丽江,就不能不对丽江的文化作一番认真的审视,看看好到底有哪些特点,在丽江的社会历史进程中到底有着什么样的地位和作用?

      首先,应该说一下最能体现丽江文化独特性的纳西东巴文化。东巴文化是纳西族自创的一种文化,其核心内容是以纳西东巴象形文字书写的大量东巴经书,以及东巴绘画、东巴舞蹈、东巴音乐、还有就是为东巴专用的各种服饰、器皿、纸、墨等实物,换言之,就是以东巴教为核心的图、文、舞、乐和其他物品共同承载的具有纳西族民族特征的物质文明和精神文明的统称。显然,它是由纳西族独创、也是为纳西族独享的,只不过从上个世纪开始越来越受到外界的关注。出于学术和商业的双重目的,研究和应用它的人日益增多,可以说遍布全中国和全世界。东巴文化的主体是东巴教,东巴教的得名在于它的祭司被称为“东巴”。东巴并不以专职从事宗教活动为生,仍然要与普通人一样从事正常的生产劳动,仅仅在业余时间根据需要使用东巴的纸张、笔墨和东巴象形文字书写东巴经卷,研读东巴经书,主持东巴教中祭天、祭“署”、祭祖、祭神、除秽禳灾祛病等各种祭祀活动。东巴教没有自己的教堂寺庙,活动场所均在自然界及民间,与百姓生活联系极为紧密,具有很强的世俗性。东巴经书的内容可以说包罗万象,堪称纳西族的大百科全书。从本民族创世纪的神话传说,到迁徙、征战的历史;从对原始狩猎、游牧活动的描述,到农耕文明的产生;从群婚制的状态,到对偶婚再到一夫一妻的家庭生活;从私有制的出现到阶级分化的形成;文学艺术中有神话、故事、诗歌、谚语、音乐、绘画,甚至还有世界上所发现的最古老也是最独特的图画象形文字舞谱;生产生活知识中有理、工、农、医、商贸、军事、天文、历法、交通、建筑等等,涉及历史学、考古学、人类学、民族学、社会学、伦理学、宗教学、哲学、语言文字学、文学、美学等自然我社会科学的数十个学科,加上数以千种的东巴祭祀仪式的程序描述,可以说东巴经书的浩繁程度已经大大超出了我们的想像。放眼整个世界,我们也很难再找到一个小小的民族能够像纳西族这样用自己特有的民族文字(而且还是象形文字)将本民族从古到今社会生活的方方面面全都加以整理记载,由此而形成多达2万余部的古章典籍。仅从这一点来说就能看出纳西族超凡的民族凝聚力和创造力。其实,要说起来仅仅东巴象形文字本身就已经是一项了不起的创造,这种图画象形文字纳西语称为“斯究鲁究”,意思是“留在石片木片上的记号”,简单说就是“木石之痕”。其主要用途在于书写东巴经书,所以又常被称作“东巴字”。东巴字的基本字数不多,只有2000多个,跟汉字之间并不能形成一一对应关系,因而在记录表述事物时只能以一种:“跳跃式”的组合方式来表达。打个比方说,可以把东巴图画象形文字中的3个基本字——一个流泪的人,一条狗,一段路——组合起来,要表达的意思用汉字书写出来就是“一个人走在路上碰到了一条狗,吓得哭了起来”,3个东巴字就对应了19个汉字(还不算标点符号)。由此我们不难看出,东巴文字的表达方式留给读者的想像和发挥的空间是很大的。这就是为什么同样一部东巴经书,一个功底较浅的小东巴可能花半个小时就诵读完了,而一个功底深厚的老东巴则可能会诵读上几个小时甚至一天半天。水平越高的东巴诵读一部东巴经书的时间越长,这种现象不但很有趣,也给东巴之间相互比试功夫“评定等级”提供了可资操作的依据,比其他民族靠“专家”评定别人的水平高低要可靠可信得多——至少在主观上不给“专家”以有意抬高或贬低别人的机会。

      丽江文化还有一个极为突出的特点就是它的开放性或者说兼容性。它对一切外来的文化都持一种宽容的态度,只要是先进的、有用的,客观存在都会接收过来,保持和发扬下去,最多按自己习惯的方式略加改造而已。多元文化并存,是很多地方都有的现象,但在丽江则表现得最为突出、最为典型。据《丽江府志略》记载,明代文人蓟羽士、周月泉、担当和尚,画家马肖仙等先后来到丽江传播汉文化,在丽江产生了很大的影响。木氏土司非?,不仅在诗词文章上与这些人有交往,而且还从中原请来大量的各类人才,包括教师、医生、裁缝、厨师、泥瓦木铁等各类能工巧匠,甚至还有负责开矿、冶炼、房屋建造等各类工程技术人员,使丽江的各项事业呈现出一个蓬勃发展的良好态势,也为各种文化在丽江交流融会创造了一个极为宽松有利的条件。在丽江你会发现,无论是有形文化还是无形文化,都是各门各派和平共处,相互兼容,外来文化和本土文化也能和谐相处,共存共荣。比如近代纳西族居住的房屋,基本式样与中原特别是江淮一带的造型并没有太大的区别,而典型的院落布局“三坊一照壁、四合五天井”完全是照搬白族的规矩,“走马转角楼”则带有藏族的风格。把不同地方、不同民族在同一事物当中的不同优点全部集中起来为我所用,这正是纳西人的聪明过人之处。也许是受了丽江宽松和谐的社会环境的影响,就连在别的地方经常闹对立的佛道两教在丽江也能相安无事,一处寺庙可以兼作道观,和尚道士“合署办公”的现象在丽江屡见不鲜。岂止两教之间相安无事,还有儒教、伊斯兰教、基督教、天主教、白教等全都可以在丽江“安家落户”。著名的白沙壁画就是丽江多教融合的写照,儒、释、道三教人物出现在同一幅画面上,说明现实中三教在一起活动的情景是很普通的,否则画师不会这样画,或者即便画出来各教如不认可也会将其毁弃而不会流传至今。更值得提及的是,佛教之中教派繁多,影响较大的两支为“藏教”和“汉传”,而丽江竟然成了他们之间的一个南北交汇地,同时也是分界地。也就是说,从丽江开始再往南已没有藏传佛教,再往北也没有汉传佛教,可见在其他地方“誓不两立”的两种教派,到了丽江却有了“共处”的机缘,丽江堪称是一个和谐的典范。

      “和谐”二字可以算得上是丽江文化的精髓。在丽江,不仅人的自身--身与心、心与灵--是和谐的,人与人是和谐的,各种文化现象和流派之间是和谐的,而且人与自然也是和谐的。纳西族崇尚自然,相信万物有神,这与很多民族没有太大的区别。最关键的在于,他们不但创造了一个自然神--“署”,而且还把“署”说成是人类的同父异母兄弟,这样就把自然与人类的关系更拉近了一步。据东巴经书记载,远古时期的纳西族在经历了一场可怕的洪水之后,只剩下了一个名叫崇忍利恩的优秀青年男子。无法忍受孤独的崇忍利恩先后娶了两位天女为妻,第一位妻子婚后生下的全部是飞禽走兽、花鸟鱼虫等自然界中的生物,第二位妻子生下的才是健康正常的人类?,人类与自然也能和谐相处,但到后来,贪得无厌的人类对自然的掠夺越来越厉害,已经到了使“署”无法容忍的地步,双方就闹到了天神丁巴什罗的面前。人类抢先开口说:“天地、山谷、树木、河流等全部被‘署’霸占,人类难以维持自己的生活,请天神让‘署’把这些东西都交给人类来主宰!薄笆稹贝鸨绲溃骸叭死辔廴玖私嗑坏纳饺,乱挖乱采土地和石头,乱砍乱烧成片的树林,还天天上山大肆捕杀阴坡的野猪、阳坡的老虎、雪山的黑熊、岩上的黄蜂、天上的飞鸟、林中的花蛇、篝边的青蛙、河里的鱼虾,真正活不下去的还是我们自然界的生物啊!”听了双方的陈述,丁巴什罗说:“再这样闹下去,河水会断流,树木会枯死,江河会干涸,石头也会烂掉,万物生灵都会渴死饿死,人类和‘署’都难以存活!蔽,丁巴什罗让双方经过调解达成协议:一、“署”要给人类提供清泉水、普降及时雨、允许人类在适当的地方适度开荒并在粮食不够吃的情况下进山适度捕猎,以维持人类的生活需要;二、人类要自觉爱护环境,不得任意砍伐森林,不得大肆毁林开荒,不得随意捕杀野生动物,也不得随便污染水源空气。为了提醒世世代代的纳西人能够自觉遵守协议,纳西人在每年开春时都要举行隆重的祭“署”仪式,在仪式上表示对“署”的亲近和感谢,反思自己有无伤害自然的行为,其实质就是在年复一年地对人类进行爱护环境、崇尚自然的“传统教育”。正是由于纳西族具有这样的优良传统,所以才能始终保持人与自然的和谐,纳西族所在的地方也才总是那样的山清水秀。特别值得一提的是,纳西族的“署”文化并不是要人类对自然一无所求、一无所取,人类有生活资料来源是离不开自然的,只是在与自然交往和向自然索取的时候要有节制,要适度,而适度的标志就是人与自然的关系平衡协调、对人类有利的同时自然也可以承受。这样的主张与20世纪后期在全人类范围内形成的“可持续发展”的思想就基本精神来说是完全一致的;痪浠八,在纳西族头脑中形成“可持续发展”思想的火花,领先于全人类的时间竟在千年以上,纳西族确确实实是很了不起的。

      更了不起的,或者说丽江文化的又一个闪光点就是他们自古以来对文化学习的高度重视。如今在丽江木府大门外不远处街道上还立着一道不知建于何时的大大的牌楼,牌楼上方是非常漂亮的四个描金大字“天雨流芳”。这四个汉字描述了一种十分美妙,非常有动感、有音响和色彩的效果,既能带给人愉悦,又能引发人思绪的深远意境。但如果没有人跟你介绍的话,你无论如何也不会想到,这四个字其实是一句纳西话的音译,而这句纳西话的本意是在劝人特别是劝青年人“读书去吧!”把这样一句话重彩描金大写出来竖立于大街之上以时时刻刻世世代代地劝人去读书学习,这又是纳西人在全世界范围内的一个伟大创举。这座牌楼其实已经成为纳西族优秀民族精神的重要标志。每一个从牌楼下走过的人都应该受到鼓舞和教育,都应该从中看到一个民族未来的希望!这座牌楼的出现绝不是偶然的现象,而是一种历史延续的必然结果!睹魇贰ね了敬分芯陀姓庋钠朗觯骸霸颇现钔凉僦,好礼守义,以丽江木氏为首!比绻的臼贤了景盎怪皇巧偈说淖魑蛔闫娴幕,那么,清朝雍正年间丽江实行改土归流时朝廷派来的两任流官杨馝到任之后“……乃首查民病,免除每年苛派万余金;次出良民之在庄院为奴者五百余户,均平赋役、招徕劝垦……授以种稻之方,鼓其向学之志!倍摹跋蜓е尽钡淖钪匾俅刖褪谴戳⑿税臁把┥绞樵骸,让平民百姓子弟也能进“学宫”学习汉文化。这在丽江文化教育的发展史上是一个崭新的里程碑,为中原主流文化在地处偏僻的纳西族中间得以推广奠定了坚实的基础。另一位流官管学宣则为丽江重视和热爱学习的良好社会风气的形成起到了决定性的推动作用。据史书记载,管学宣上任后采取了一系列的措施兴教督学,除了“多筹资金、重整书院、广设义学”之外,还明确规定有子弟不读书的就严惩父母,有百姓不赴学的就追究乡保长的责任。除了为办好学!肮菏榧、聘名师”之外,他还经常带着随从在夜深人静时走街串巷,发现窗下有灯光映照的人家就敲门进去探查,如果有书生在秉烛夜读的,当即记下该生的姓名及所居住的房门位置,次日便派人送来钱粮资助,如此一传十、十传百,自然使丽江“士风日上”。他还经常到学馆书院亲自给学生授课、阅卷,对丽江学子寄予很高的期望。他在《下东课士说》一文中写道:“丽山水清淑,人士英敏,将必有握珠抱玉,崛起于雪山玉水之间者!崩鼋嗣裆罡衅浣袒,在他离任之时,“郡人老幼攀辕注送,数十里络绎不绝,士子有送至二三日路程者”。正是有如此开明的流官引导,形成了人人潜心向学的优良传统,所以总人口一直没有超过30万的纳西族才会在清朝一百多年时间里出了2位翰林、7位进士、60多位举人,在当今则有5位大学校长、30名博士、300名副高以上的专家学者,具有中级职称的专业技术人才更达3000多人。按人口比例计算,在全中国都可称得上数一数二。

      概而言之,把丽江的绮丽风光与绚烂文化相对照,更显辉煌耀眼的应该是后者。

     


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